Update

UPDATE: I read this morning on BBC that "Israel has imposed an information blackout, making it difficult to gather first-hand accounts from the campaigners [activists from the Freedom Flotilla]" http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/10200351.stm

Sounds a bit fishy, huh? Especially for a democratic country with freedom of speech as its cornerstone, it appears that Israel is trying to cover up something...

What a tragic day...

To say that today has been a whirlwind would be an understatement. Over the past 18 hours or so, the mood of Ramallah has gone from business as usual to rage.

This morning around 4:30 am the Israeli Defense Force killed nine international activists and injured dozens on a ship in international waters while seven soldiers were wounded by activist violence. The convoy of six ships from the Free Gaza Movement was carrying humanitarian aid intended to reach Gaza. These ships were working in defiance of the three-year blockade that Israel has imposed on Gaza since Hamas took control in 2007.

The Freedom Flotilla came from Turkey carry 10,000 tons of desperately needed humanitarian aid to Gaza. As I mentioned in my last post, the situation in Gaza is dire at best, things as simple as coffee, chocolate, and coriander are forbidden to enter what is often called the world’s largest open-air prison. Sunday, the flotilla departed Cyprus to Gaza despite repeated warnings from Israel that their ships would be turned away.

This morning around 4:30 am while still in international waters, the largest of the six ships was stormed by commandos of the Israeli Defense Force. Clashes between some 500 activists aboard the ship and soldiers turned deadly as the situation immediately turned violent. The initiator of the violence still remains unknown. Israel claims that soldiers were met with pipes, knives, guns, and axes as they were lowered onto the ship via helicopter. Their reaction to open live fire was in self-defense.

Organizers of the Free Gaza Movement say that this was not intended to be violent and the images released by the IDF show activists defending themselves from unprovoked live fire shot by the Israeli soldiers. The ships were detained immediately after violence erupted so firsthand accounts from activists are not available. It is expected that passengers on the ship will either be immediately deported or detained for an unknown amount time. It will be only a matter of time before the activists’ side of the story emerges and findings from independent investigations including one by the United Nations will draw more conclusions to how this demonstration turned into a massacre, and perhaps more importantly, on whom the blame will be placed.

The international response overwhelmingly condemns the actions of Israel. Ambassadors in Spain, Greece, and Turkey have all been summoned by the respective governments to give a full explanation of this morning’s event. Demonstrations have been happening across the world at Israeli embassies and consulates. The United States has yet to make any pivotal comments calling the deaths “regretful” and that it reserving judgment until more is known about the circumstances of the raid.

The Israeli government response has been “regretful of the deaths” but supportive of the actions of the commandos. While I personally am still on the fence over who is truly at blame for the catastrophic events of the day, I am appalled by the clear propaganda Israel is using to describe the situation in Gaza and the intentions of Freedom Flotilla.

In a speech by Deputy Foreign Minister Danny Ayalon called the flotilla an “armada of hate and violence of the Hamas terror organization” and that “the organizers are well known for their ties to Global Jihad, Al-Qaeda, and Hamas.”

To me this is a clear abuse of the word terrorism and irresponsibly links the mission of humanitarian aid and terrorism. In my mind, Israel is brainwashing their own citizens into thinking that anyone who sympathizes with the Palestinian cause is a terrorist or involved in terroristic activity. I’ve seen it happen time and time again with friends doing development work in Palestine (much like I am doing here) and being deployed for being a “security threat” despite working with reputable organizations with absolutely no history of terroristic or violent activity.

I do believe that the mission of the Freedom Flotilla was to distribute much needed aid to Gaza, not provide Hamas with weapons to use against Israel. Examples of the aid carried by the flotilla were wheelchairs, food, construction materials, and medicine – all of which are not allowed into Gaza through Israeli channels as Ayalon later mentions.

Israel and the Free Gaza organizations both confirm that Israel did extend a diplomatic hand to distribute the humanitarian aid brought by the Freedom Flotilla. The Free Gaza Movement refused because they knew that very few of their supplies would actually reach the hands of Gazans. After Israel would check the aid and dispose of anything that is not included on the miniscule list of 30 items allowed into Gaza, little would actually be delivered – despite these materials being desperately needed. Israel claims that it would have distributed the humanitarian aid aboard, but in actuality, the state has a very narrow definition of humanitarian aid and considers items like tea, concrete, and wheelchairs to be either luxuries or items used to assist terrorism.

Interestingly enough, Israel denies that there is a humanitarian crisis in Gaza, boasting that it provides some 15,000 tons of humanitarian aid to the region on a weekly basis. But according to the UN and other leading human rights organizations, this is about of quarter of supplies actually needed. While not many are going hungry in Gaza, as food is the main form of aid, Gazans have just a few hours of electricity a day, very very very little adequate drinking water, extremely limited access to fuel and most importantly virtually no access to building supplies to rebuild their homes and businesses to build any sort of an economy or infrastructure. Currently there is one functioning hospital (the other three were bombed in 2008) serving over one million people in a region with one of the world’s fastest population growth rates. Furthermore, many people are still left homeless and without proper protection of the harsh weather, extremely hot summers and cold winters. The only country in the world that denies the extreme humanitarian crisis in Gaza is Israel. Even the US government, Israel’s closest ally has not only called for the end to the blockade but initiated USAID projects to help rebuild.

As more details unfold about this current crisis, I am sure tension will rise around the region. Today demonstrations took place throughout the West Bank, Gaza, and East Jerusalem. Palestine has issued a 3-day mourning period where businesses, schools, and NGOs are urged to strike. I am unsure if there will be school tomorrow. Many fear that this could initiate the third intifada that has been brewing for some months due to settlement building in East Jerusalem, the takeover of the Ibrahim Mosque, and stalled peace talks. Only time will tell, especially as the side of the activists becomes public.

As you can imagine, this is a huge obstacle for peace and security in the region. Please pray for the peace in the Middle East.

Spring has sprung!

Greetings loyal readers!

It’s a warm spring night in Ramallah. I’m currently at my home away from home, Café La Vie. It’s a cozy hangout with the best lentil soup in town and a kind wait staff. It sometimes reminds me of the infamous Purple Onion in Minneapolis, except that instead of pining over econ problem sets, I’m writing blogposts and communicating with people here and away. There are still comforting parallels. The Beatles and other old music frequent the music playlist and there is a wide selection of desserts I shouldn’t be eating. Ahhhh nostalgia.

Today marks the Israeli Memorial Day followed by Independence Day tomorrow. I was in Jerusalem last night as Israel welcomed in Memorial Day at sundown. A horn rang throughout the city and everything stopped. People stopped their cars (some in the middle of the highway) and just stood still. Many people get out of their cars and stood next to them while they observed the loss of 23,000 Israelis who have fallen in combat since the state’s creation in 1948. No matter what my opinion is of Israel’s fallen and military record, I truly was touched by this gesture of observance. In America, I feel there is an immense amount of pride and appreciation for the services that soldiers and veterans provide, but rarely does the public stop (literally stop) everything and reflect on the sacrifices made by others to maintain our security and freedom. It was an amazing sight to see.

Unfortunately a holiday for Israel usually means a day of morning for Palestine. Palestinians commemorate May 14 as the “Naqba” or catastrophe. which usually aligns with the Israeli independence day. As for why Israel is celebrating Independence Day a month early is beyond me, but according to the Gregorian calendar, the state of Israel was created on May 14, 1948….hmmmm. It was the events where Israel was granted its independence that many Palestinians lost their homes, their livelihoods, and even their lives, so it would only be appropriate that this day brings great sadness, and at times anger to the Palestinian people. I’ve been told that tensions run high throughout May, as the anniversary of the Naqba grows closer. With tensions already as high as they are, I imagine it will be a tumultuous month.

Politically, the peace process continues to be at a standstill. Palestine refuses to come to the negotiation table unless Israel suspends the building of all settlements – West Bank and Jerusalem. Israel has issued a 10-month suspension of building permits in West Bank settlements, but refuses to quit building in East Jerusalem. The argument that East Jerusalem is fair game for the Israelis to build in carries about as much weight as me annexing my neighbor’s yard and building a shed on it and claiming it as my own. Internationally speaking, Jerusalem is a divided city with East Jerusalem explicitly being designated as Palestinian territory. So the saga continues. Other international heavyweights, namely the United States, the European Union, the United Nations, and Russia have called for a halt to settlement building with the hopes of reaching a peace agreement in 2 years At the rate it’s going, this may be a difficult objective to reach.

While relations are icy between Israel and the West Bank’s governing body, relations between Gaza and Israel are still hostile. It’s important to remember that the West Bank is under the governing control of the political party, Fatah. Fatah, once an internationally recognized terror group, has gained legitimacy on a worldwide scale. Fatah, unlike Hamas, recognizes Israel is a state and is willing to negotiate peace provided that the existing preconditions are met (namely the halt to all settlement building) and represents a more politically moderate stance. Hamas, the main opposition party to Fatah, is recognized as an international terrorist organization. In its 1988 charter it calls for replace Israel with an Islamic Palestinian state in present day Israel, Gaza, and the West Bank. The terrorist accusations against Hamas mainly come from the organized launching of suicide attacks in Israelis during the second intifada and more recently frequent rocket attacks that are launched from Gaza, over the separation wall and into Israel. Though casualties are rare in such attacks (last month there were 20 independent attacks with one casualty), it often prompts IDF military action.

December 2008/January 2009 marked the deadliest military action since the invasions during the second intifada. Over the course of three weeks, 1400 Gazans were killed and billions of dollars of damage ensued. Though the IDF asserts that it was targeting militia outposts, three of Gaza’s four hospitals were leveled, the heart of Gaza’s sewage infrastructure was destroyed (this later led to a “sewage tsunami” that killed 8 people literally drowning in sewage) and countless private homes and businesses. Following these air strikes, Hamas ceased to launch rockets into Israel, though other smaller militant factions continue to do so, as I’ll explain later.

Israel has instilled a staunch blockade on Gaza since Hamas came to power in 2006, meaning there is a list of 30 items that Israel allows into the region legally. Most of these 30 items are primitive and include food, medicine, and detergent, forget about coffee, tea, musical instruments, anything made of wood, appliances, light bulbs, fabric or probably anything else you can name – their entry is forbidden. After the air strikes concluded, Gaza was in ruins. Furthermore, because it largely targeted the civilian population (a direct violation of UN international law), people were without homes and unable to gain any materials (think wood, glass, concrete – nothing) to rebuild their lost homes and businesses. Many people are still living among the rubble of what used to be their home. The blockade also means that Gaza is not allowed to export any goods, without access to any sort of commerce, goods in Gaza are extremely expensive (can anyone say around $12 for a gallon of gas?) and the unemployment rate is astronomical, around 85 percent.

Though it’s difficult, goods (and weapons) are getting into Gaza through a sophisticated tunnel system from Egypt into the blockaded region. Items as big as furniture and cars are smuggled through the tunnels to Gazans. It’s actually quite impressive. Recently though, with the help of the US Army Corps of Engineers, Egypt is building a wall between the Gaza/Egypt border that will extend some 18 meters below the surface to hopefully curtail much of the tunnel activity. Though they are well aware that the tunnels will be rebuilt, it will severely halt tunnel activity for the near future. There is no telling what this means for the people of Gaza.

Hamas has shown small signs of wishing cooperate with the Israeli government. It’s no secret that the wellbeing of Gaza is directly related to the frequency of rockets launched into Israel. Due to the Israeli casualty last month, Israel launched a small-scale air strike targeting militia outposts. The most recent rocket launches have been initiated by smaller military groups like the Islamic Jihad and others. Hamas Prime Minister Ismail Haniya stated in a BBC article “We are contacting other Palestinian factions in order to reach an internal consensus as to the measures we may take in order to protect our people and strengthen our unity.” In other words, Hamas is trying to maintain the smaller factions in order to maintain calm in Gaza for the “national interest.” Though small, I believe this to be a significant gesture on behalf of Hamas to suspend militant action directed at Israel. Ayman Taha, a spokesman for the Hamas government said that “The government of Gaza is in charge of the situation, and it does know clearly who launches the rockets…it is working hard to deter any faction from acting individually.” The IDF responded saying it would “not tolerate terroristic activity inside Gaza that threatens Israeli citizens.”

When thinking about a peace deal between Israel and Palestinians, it’s entirely possible that negotiations will take place between the people of the West Bank and Israel and the status quo of Gaza will remain, due to it’s unwillingness to negotiate. Unfortunately, the rift between Fatah and Hamas is so great that they may require a peace process of sorts between themselves. As Gaza and Hamas are more and more separated from the rest of the world, extremism is becoming more and more prevalent. With one of the highest birthrates and population densities in the world, Gaza’s population is growing quickly which could lead to further instability. Only time will tell.

Thanks for reading. As always, I am overwhelmed by the feedback and comments I receive from my readers. I truly appreciate you keeping me in your thoughts are prayers. Pictures from Easter and Turkey to come!

 

Ma Salma!

The past month or so...

Masa il khair (good evening!)

It never ceases to amaze me how quickly the time passes by here. It's difficult for me to believe that it is in fact, March. As I’ve entered the second half of my time here, I’m starting to think about reentry and what my next step will be post-volunteer year. It’s still very much an overwhelming feeling, especially as I attempt to quantify this experience within the confines of a resume and CV. I’m not entirely sure what path I want to take from here. I’ve been looking at postings from corporate America to the CIA. If anyone is aware of opportunities that sound interesting, I’m all ears…

This past weekend was our mid-year retreat in Jordan. Despite the Jordanian border being just 20 kilometers away, it still takes a considerable amount of time to get there. Vehicles are not allowed to pass like they do at the US-Canada border, so it requires a relay of taxis, busses, and shuttles to get from Jerusalem to Amman – Jordan’s capital. All in all, it took us about 6 hours to get from the shuttle station in Jerusalem to our hotel in Amman.

Unfortunately, we were met by one of the worst rains Amman has seen in some time. In my mind, it’s no coincidence that the Arabic word for rain is shitta. Despite the crummy weather, Amman was the perfect mid-year location for a retreat. Day one included a trip to Mecca Mall and taking in Valentine’s Day at the movie theater. Words can’t describe how good it felt to spend a few mindless hours watching a movie in English after a delicious meal at the food court full of familiar restaurants: Pizza Hut, Subway, McDonalds, Burger King, KFC, Popeyes, Sbarro, and others. Nearly every ethnicity of food was represented (except Mexican – sad) and I even enjoyed a veggie burger.

Mecca Mall in Amman is a great representation of what a free Arab country can look like. In 1994, Jordan declared peace with Israel that earned it legitimacy from Western countries and the aid from the United States and other wealthy countries poured in. The infrastructure is significantly better than in the West Bank and Egypt, there are fewer honks and whistles from the shabab (young men) and people enjoy the freedoms that come with unlimited mobility and being able to build and update their properties. People are living their lives in peace and are free of the uncertainty that the occupation brings.

Relations between Israel and Jordan are still strained. Currently around 60% of people living in Jordan are Palestinian. There is a definite divide between “real Jordanians” and Palestinians. Many Palestinians site experiencing a glass ceiling in governmental positions and from the interactions we had with Jordanians, the divide was quite clear. “We like Palestinians that are in Palestine, not Palestinians that are in Jordan” said one shopkeeper at Petra. Now Jordan faces a new refugee crisis as Iraqis are fleeing the US invasion and seeking refuge in neighboring Jordan and Syria. I doubt they are being met warmly.

After a day of taking in Amman, or rather the mall, we drove 3 hours south to Petra. Petra, the “Rose-red City”, was built in the 3^rd century BC by the Nabateans who carved palaces, temples, tombs, storerooms, and stables from rocky cliffs. This became a trade route from Damascus to Arabia where spices, silk, and slaves passed through. The city was “discovered” in 1812 after being lost for some 1000 years. Bedouins (nomadic Arabs) turned the area into a tourist destination and continue to live and operate there.

Unfortunately, my camera took a tumble at the Dome of the Rock a few weeks ago, so I have no personal pictures of Petra. I’m hoping to get some from my fellow volunteers that I can post. However, I don’t think pictures can capture Petra's beauty. The magnificent colors in the rock and the intricacy of the carvings are something that can only be appreciated in person. It’s an unbelievable place.

We spent the night in Wadi Rum, a small tourist town near Petra before heading back to Amman on Sunday. Again, in Amman we were met by showers, so back to the Mecca Mall we went. After a leisurely shopping day and a failed attempt to see sights in the Old City of Amman, we headed to the Lutheran Church for service. In order to accommodate the schedules of the parishioners, worship is held at 6:30pm on Sunday evening, as Sunday is a work day in the Muslim-majority country.

It was clear that the rain deterred many members from coming to service but it was great to talk to the parishioners. True to Middle Eastern hospitality, we spent our time after the service drinking tea and dancing to everything from “I Will Survive” to popular Arabic music. We left for the border on Monday morning. Thankfully the lines were short and we were able to pass through without any issues.

PEACE UPDATE:

Politically, the conditions in Israel/Palestine are tense. Three significant events of the past month and a half are hindering the peace process. The murder of Mahmoud Al-Mabhouh in Dubai on January 20, Netanyahu’s declaration of the Tomb of the Patriochs (or Ibrahim Mosque) and Rachel’s Tomb as a Israeli heritage site on February 21, and the 112-unit expanision of Beitar Illit on March 8 have played major roles in Palestinian strikes and riots.

Mahmoud Al-Mabhouh was the second in command for the Islamic militant group, Hamas, who has control over the Gaza Strip. Al-Mabhouh who was residing in Syria, traveled to Dubai for business purposes (perhaps to acquire arms). There he was electrocuted and suffocated by an 11-person hit team, all carrying counterfeited European passports. This action has outraged the European countries that had citizens with stolen identities. Israeli ambassadors have been summoned to meet with the respective country’s officials. Israel neither admits nor denies involvement in the murder, but Dubai has issued warrants for the arrest of Benjamin Netanyahu (Prime Minister of Israel) and Meir Dagan ( head of the Israeli intelligence unit, Mossad), though it’s doubtful either will ever be turned over to UAE authorities.

The press in Israel is mixed about the murder of Al-Mabhouh. No news outlet questions whether or not Israel was involved, the motives are too strong in favor of a Mossad led assassination. The counterfeited passports have caused considerable strains between Israel and the European countries involved. This has led to intense criticism from the press as Israel is already experiencing major backlash from Europe for international law violations. Other news outlets hail this as a “victory in the war on terror” and is unconcerned with the bad publicity.

On February 21, Netanyahu announced that the Tomb of the Patriarchs (or as Muslims call it – Ibrahim Mosque) and Rachel’s Tomb would undergo renovation and be declared an Israeli heritage site. The Tomb of the Patriarchs is a sacred site for Muslims, Jews, and Christians as it houses the tombs of Abraham, Jacob, Isaac, and their wives. Normally, this wouldn’t seem like such a bad idea, but the site is in Hebron, not at all under Israeli jurisdiction. It would be like Mexico declaring the Alamo in San Antonio a Mexican heritage site because of its connection to Mexicans. And then taking control over it – without the consent of the US. You can imagine the outrage. Rachel’s Tomb is also sacred for Muslims, Jews, and Christians but in Bethlehem. After the declaration, cities all across the West Bank went on strike – meaning nothing was open and schools were closed. Recently, there have been intense riots in the Old City of Jerusalem following Friday prayers, and fires at checkpoints.

Today, Israel OKed a 112-unit expansion on a West Bank settlement despite a freeze on settlement building. Pressure from the US caused Israel to put a 10-month building freeze on West Bank settlements in November (though unfortunately not East Jerusalem settlements – an action that has outraged Palestinians who want to see Jerusalem as its capital one day) though construction continued on some 3000 units already in progress. This announcement comes days before Vice President Joe Biden is set to visit the region; undoubtedly, it will be considered a major hurdle in the peace process. Palestine refuses to negotiate peace until building is stopped in all settlements on the West Bank and in East Jerusalem. Unfortunately there is no end to that in sight. Peace negotiations have been taking place via US mediator George Mitchell. Face-to-face meetings between Abbas and Netanyahu will not happen until the settlement preconditions are met.

All in all, it’s been great here. Currently it’s 85 degrees and it won’t be long until I’m at the beach. School has been going well and I enjoy being involved with the English club. As always, I am so grateful for the response to my blog via comments, e-mail, and mail. I have a new e-mail address at laurie.ann.blank@gmail.com, please feel free to send me a line.

Ma Salama!

Pictures

Pictures from January! Please don't miss the new blogpost below.

Beth, Issa, and I in Jaffa on New Years Day. Issa and his family have become a second family to us. We were so happy they invited us along to their New Years festivities.

Ultra-orthodox Jews on their way to Synagogue at Shabbat

Mom and Carl at Capernum, a city were Jesus and Peter retreated during the Galilee ministry.

Carl and I at the River Jordan

The Pyramids of Giza!

Ma She (it's going)

Greetings from Palestine!

I apologize for the delay in updating my blog. The beginning of 2010 has been anything but dull. It started with a wonderful visit from my parents and brother. It was great to be able to show them my life here and introduce them to good and not-so-good things of living in Israel/Palestine. Lately the biggest challenge has been overcoming a bit of homesickness. While I wouldn’t trade seeing my family for anything, I was reminded of the simplicities of living at home: speaking the language, never having to go through checkpoints, a car to get me from point A to point B, and CENTRAL HEATING. However, if I learned anything in the countless study abroad seminars I attended, halfway through one’s stay in a foreign country, he or she tends to become homesick. With that said, I am confident that this phase too, shall pass.

On the upside, there have been some changes at school that have allowed us to be more hands on with the students. Last week we had our first English Club meeting that Beth, Najua (the 8^th – 10^th grade English teacher) and I have been developing. The students involved are advanced speakers, so they’re mostly interested in moving from a proficiency level of English to a fluent level. This means that we’ll be focusing on the fun parts of the language and culture – humor, pop culture, music, and the dos and don’ts of English speaking cultures. This is, however, my first experience with a language club, and so if anyone has any ideas of how to present different aspects of English life, I would greatly appreciate suggestions. We also will be starting an English study group next week for students who want help their class material. My preparation for this will be brushing up on my English grammar. Today, I was asked what the difference was between using wish and hope. Quite honestly, I was stumped.

This past weekend was a busy one. Beth and I were in Beit Sahour for a choir retreat. Earlier this year we joined a choir as a creative outlet. The choir is a mix of Palestinians and Internationals, the rehearsals are in English, il humdilla (thank God!) and our repertoire is in English, Italian, French, Portuguese, Spanish, and Arabic. We will be giving three concerts in mid-February. There are two great things about this choir. Firstly, it’s an opportunity to incorporate music back into my life. During college, I was consumed by my boyfriend (sometimes abusive) by the name of economics. I didn’t realize how much I missed reading and making music. Secondly, the members of our choir are involved in some very meaningful work in the West Bank/Gaza. I learned so much this weekend about the “facts on the ground” from an NGO/Governmental aid standpoint. As learn more, I will certainly pass they facts along to you. I feel so lucky that I receive the kind of support that I do from this community and that we have the common interest of music.

After the retreat, Beth and I decided to feed our homesick selves by watching the Vikings/Saints game with some USAID friends. Though I classify myself a fair-weathered fan, I feel that staying up to watch the game from 1:30am to 5:30 on a school night earns me bonus points with the football gods.

Beyond my personal perils here, the current peace process seems to be at a stalemate. George Mitchell, the lead negotiator for the US has said that we will cut aid to both the PA (Palestinian Authority) and Israel if there isn’t an agreement in two years. Currently we give Israel $3 billion in a handout in addition to billions in military equipment, and we also purchase a great deal of military equipment from the Israelis at an inflated price. We also give the Palestinian territories around $1.6 billion most of which is spent in the West Bank with more funds being appropriated to the rebuilding of Gaza, though these funds have many strings attached as we do not want any of it winding up in the hands of Hamas. Hopefully this will be an incentive for the two side to get more serious about a treaty.

Lastly, I want to close my entry with a movie recommendation. I just watched “Paradise Now” about suicide bombers in Nablus. The movie is in Arabic, but has good subtitles and sheds some light on the mentality of suicide bombing.

As always, thanks for your continued prayers and support. I sincerely appreciate the comments, e-mails, and messages via my parents.

Ma Salme! (go with peace)

Cairo and New Years!

Again, I write to you from Ben Gurion airport, not because I am preparing to fly to another destination, but because in a few short hours my parents and brother are set to arrive. This past week has been one of my best. I spent 6 days in Cairo, soaking in pyramids, mosques, and Egyptian life, then I spent New Years in Ramallah with friends and their families.

Cairo was absolutely fascinating – it’s busy, it’s crowded, and there’s so many things to see and do it could take an eternity to experience it all. One thing I didn’t realize about Cairo is its shear size. It’s home to more than 20 million people and growing as birth rates continue to boom along with an influx of refugees from all over the Middle East. With this many people comes crowds that rival those of urban China, crossing the street was perhaps the most dangerous thing I’ve done in quite sometime, that is until I got in a cab.

Besides the beautiful sights, the best thing about Cairo is its affordability. Nearly 40% of Egyptians live on $1/day, meaning that the government heavily subsidizes all basic necessities. For example, a ride on the metro costs $0.15, a tank of gas will set you back around $12, and I could enjoy a dinner with an entrée and 3 sides for around $3. Despite having major issues with Islamic extremists, the biggest problem for Egypt is its economy. The subsidies have led to an economy on the brink of collapse and with Mubarak aging with no clear replacement, the future of Egypt is uncertain.

All in all, my time in Egypt was very insightful. Living in Palestine has allowed me to gather insight into the Arab world, but seeing another culture gives me a better base for the region. In general, Egypt has gained a reputation of being far more conservative than Palestine, but I found this to be not entirely true. Yes, burqas and full veils are far more common and attire expectations (with the exception of some tourists) are more conservative, but ironically, public displays of affection were nearly to the level of the United States. In Arab countries, public displays of affection between men and women is strictly forbidden, public displays of affection among straight men are not. It is not uncommon to find men holding hands, linking arms, or sharing kisses on the cheek. This kind of behavior is perfectly normal with no implications of homosexuality – as for the notion of being gay, unfortunately, the consequences can be catastrophic.

New Years was another wonderful evening. Unsure of what the night would bring, we joined one of our closest friends’ family for dinner and the countdown. It was great to experience more of Palestinian family life. We played cards, learning a few Arab games and teaching the family “spoons” which was a lot of fun. New Years day, Bethany and I went with the same family to Jaffa for a dinner with their family. With 6 kids and 4 grandkids it gets kind of hectic, but overall it was nice to feel like a part of a family for a day – something I’ve really missed.

I will post more from my family’s visit. Also, I’ve found that it’s easier to post pictures of facebook of my travels. Please feel free to “friend” me if you wish.

Happy Holidays!

قد عيد الميلاد

Merry Christmas!

I write to you from Ben Gurion airport in Tel-Aviv while in transit to Cairo. In an effort to avoid the inconveniences of Shabbat, I've arrived for my flight 7 hours early. I'm slightly sad that I have to spend my Christmas day in an airport, but the festivities of last night have certainly made me less bummed about spending Christmas in an airport. I'm extremely tired though.

Our day started with a Christmas dinner at the home of our coordinators in Beit Jala. The meal was complete with vegan mashed potatoes, guacamole, and vegan fudge. After exchanging gifts with our secret santa we headed to Christmas Eve service at Christmas Lutheran Church in Bethlehem. The church itself is small, but truly perfection with high arches made out of limestone, stained glass windows and quaint pews. The service was given in Arabic, English, and German with each participant singing and praying in their native tongue. The service ended with a candlelit procession through Bethlehem singing Silent Night.

We then headed to Manager Square in Bethlehem where there was live music in front of the Church of the Nativity with thousands standing, listening. I couldn't help but notice that 90% of those attending the festivities were young men. This is a reality that I'm slowly coming to realize as public events are overwhelmingly attended by men. To feel comfortable, I usually need some sort of male escort to forgo the creepy stares, space violators, and unwanted comments from the sahba (young men). It's sad really, because women can’t feel comfortable celebrating even religious happenings because of a male dominated culture.

We took a break from Manager Square to have a proper Palestinian Christmas meal of pita, hummus, and falafel. It was nice to reflect with those I’ve gotten close to over the past months. Being away from family has been difficult for all of us, especially during the holidays, and it was nice to share a meal together and share stories and traditions (it also didn’t hurt that our meal cost a mere $2.50 – the cheapest Christmas meal I will ever have!).

The live music ended around 11pm to make way for services at the Church of the Nativity. Tickets are required for this event, so we decided to head to the Shepherd’s Fields in Beit Sahour to occupy our time. Walking through Beit Sahour was when it really felt like Christmas. Beit Sahour is one of two predominately Christian towns in the Israel/Palestine area so we were greeted with “Merry Chirstmas” and “Eid ill Melad Said” by many as we walked the street. Getting to Shepherd’s Fields took three attempts. Our first distraction was a procession of Catholics making their way to Bethlehem that we joined. Complete with mosquito torches, drums, guitars, and voices, we walked and talked with people from all over the world.

We decided to jump out of the procession early to again head to the Shepherd’s Field. As we walked down the street a woman wished us a Merry Christmas from her balcony and invited us in for tea. “From the bottom of my heart, please take tea with me on Christmas.” Leenda was her name and she prepared us tea with sage because that is what Mary had when she delivered baby Jesus. Leenda had children in America and used to be a pharmacist. She was spending Christmas alone, so it was nice to know that we were giving this generous woman company and that we had a bit of tea to warm up.

After tea, we made a third and final attempt to go to the Shepherd’s Field. It was about a 30-minute walk from Manager Square in Bethlehem. The field has since been turned into more of a park – a rarity in Palestine – complete with a chapel, fountain and multiple worshiping spaces. We could hear services in multiple languages, and familiar Christmas carols being sung in German, English, Arabic, and other unknown tongues.

After doing a bit of exploring, my fellow volunteers and I read the gospel from Luke and took some time to reflect on our night. I received a call from my home church in Casselton where I read the lessons and gave a brief rundown of my Christmas Eve in the Holy Land. It was nice to feel like I was a part of the service, despite not being able to hear anyone on the other end, I still felt connected to home.

I am preparing for my parents and brother to visit me here next week. I’m so excited to share my experiences with them. More to come…

Merry Christmas!

Adventures with the Mustashfa (hospital)

Marhabba! (hello)

It’s a beautiful afternoon in Ramallah; about 64 degrees outside and more like 60 degrees inside. I’m trying to get my beloved space heater to work, but with the TV and cable box running, I think I may have overloaded our outlet. We recently acquired a TV and cable box from the family who used to live upstairs. Bethany and I are now proud owners of approximately 1000 channels with countless English=speaking movie channels. It certainly is nice to have, despite the fact that the movies played are on a “world’s worst movie” list somewhere.

This week has been difficult for one unfortunate reason. Though it’s a bit embarrassing, I think it serves as a good story to share about the realities of living here. I acquired the inevitable – travelers diarrhea.

We’ve been hosting a group of ELCA bishops and their wives this week as they explore the Holy Land. Bethany and I accompanied them on Tuesday and Wednesday which included a visit to Yad Vashem (the holocaust museum in Jerusalem), presentations by Israel’s Minister of Interior and Minister of Tourism among other high level government officials, and a trip to our school in Ramallah. After the bishop’s visit to our school, I decided to take a nap and woke up with excruciating pain in my lower abdomen. The pain is what I imagine contractions during child birth might feel like. After three or four hours of intense abdominal pain and vomiting, I decided it was time to visit the mustashfa (hospital).

This time, Bethany and I decided to brave the private hospital upon recommendation from a church member. One of my work-out friends rushed me to the hospital as if I was on the brink of death. After blood and urine tests, I was diagnosed with a UTI, a diagnosis I felt wasn’t quite right. But irregardless of my broken Arabic and my doctor’s broken English, I was out the door with a prescription in hand. I filled the prescription with hope that it would lessen the pain and vomiting. Unfortunately, taking the medication induced something worse: diarrhea and even more intense stomach pain. Considering that one of the boxes of medication had a slinky on it, I should have been concerned.

I was still trying to remain optimistic, but at about midnight (4 hours after I had gotten back from the hospital the first time) I decided it was time to make another journey to the mustashfa. This time another work-out friend of mine, who speaks English well, came with to help me communicate more clearly what was wrong. “Back so soon?” my doctor greeted me. I again explained my symptoms and how I thought my previous diagnosis was incorrect. This time, I was visited by the surgeon, probably because he spoke the best English, and they put me on an IV and another kind of medication. I left the hospital around 3 am full of liquids and drugs.

Thursday, I still was experiencing considerable stomach pain and diarrhea, but it was definitely an improvement from Wednesday. I spent most of the day napping, but was frequently interrupted by phone calls and visits from concerned parties. The English teacher and secretary from school came over to visit, along with several members from the church council, and other community members. Even the 9^th graders wanted to stop by; fortunately, their teacher encouraged them not to. With them they brought advice about what kind of foods to eat and most brought food with them. I am now on a strict regime of potatoes and bananas and staying away from chocolate (doctor’s orders) and lentils. We also spent time hypothesizing how I contracted this Middle Eastern mystery disease; some say the wind, some say the cold weather, I say food poisoning; but whatever, all ideas are welcome.

I certainly felt appreciated by the amount of concern that was shown over my wellbeing. On the flip side, I think the entire city of Ramallah now knows that I have/had diarrhea as I’ve had more conversations concerning my bowels than I ever care to have again.

Today, I am feeling almost 100%. The diarrhea is gone but I still have a bit of stomach pain here and there. Tomorrow, one of the bishops will be preaching at our church and we’ll go to Beit Jala to have a closing meal/service with them before they head to the Galilee and then home.

Hopefully, they’ll let me have shuklaa (chocolate) soon…

Happy Thanksgiving/Eid Said!

Happy Thanksgiving!

I am sitting in my flat at the moment trying to get as close as I possible can to the space heater without burning my sweat pants. While the weather outside is still very much tolerable (especially considering that I’ve spent the last 22 winters in the Midwest), but the houses, which are made completely of concrete and limestone block, are cooling quickly. The concept of central heating doesn’t exist here so for the time being, we’re relying on space heaters until diesel is delivered and we can operate the iron heating apparatuses in our rooms.

Thanksgiving was bittersweet. It was the first time that I’ve really missed home. Despite being vegan, Thanksgiving is one of my favorite holidays as it is one of the few times in my increasingly busy life that all of my family and friends are in one place. Also, Thanksgiving is not celebrated here, and in many respects it not only marks a holiday of gratitude, but also the official beginning (as my mom adamantly asserts) of the Christmas season. Much appreciated cards and mail have flooded my mailbox this month, and I am so thankful for these. It’s so great to have something to open and read familiar handwriting.

The sweet part of Thanksgiving came in spreading the holiday spirit in preparing a meal for three of our close Palestinian friends. The idea came after I was surfing the foodnetwork website for couscous recipes when I came across a picture of what looked like (and ended up tasting like) the best apple pie of all time. As I called in our friends to take a look at this culinary masterpiece, they looked at each other in confusion – they had never seen nor tasted pie before! From here Bethany and I made it our personal mission to bring the wonders of not only pie, but Thanksgiving as a holiday to the West Bank.

It’s important to note that Beth is a vegetarian and I am a vegan, so though we still had slight objections to the idea of cooking meat, we knew that we wouldn’t do Thanksgiving justice without it. Also, it’s important to note that the Muslim mega-holiday, Eid Adha, a time where older Muslims typically make their once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimage to Mecca. Traditionally Muslim families slaughter cows to celebrate. To learn more about the pilgrimage, read this article: http://www.cnn.com/2009/WORLD/meast/11/28/hajj.bridge/index.html

And so began the grocery shopping adventure of a lifetime….

Turkey is not a common entrée here. Yes, it can be purchased like deli meat, but I was seriously mistaken when I thought I could buy a frozen turkey for $0.40/pound like I could at Super Wal-Mart. So after a failed attempt to buy a turkey, Beth and I settled on two two-pound chickens from the butcher’s section at the grocery store. When he asked us if we’d like anything cut off, my first instinct was “la shukran” (no thank you), but upon closer inspection, I realized that the heads were still on the chickens and there was no way that I would be able to stomach preparing chickens without all of the necessary appendages removed. I’m so glad I spotted it before we left the store or we may have had a meatless Thanksgiving.

Another challenging ingredient to find was dairy-free butter. I am still following strict vegan guidelines here and because Orthodox Jewish tradition requires its followers to separate their animal products, I figured a butter substitute wouldn’t be that difficult to find. Again, I was seriously mistaken. After visiting what seemed like visiting a baker’s dozen grocery stores, our coordinators brought us to a giant grocery store in Jerusalem where I found a kind, English speaking, Orthodox Jewish woman who helped translate the Hebrew on the container.

Going to the grocery store in Jerusalem was a brief flashback to my life in the US. One thing I’ve missed while in Israel/Palestine is convenience, there are rarely grocery stores that sell both groceries and produce under one roof. I never thought I would say this, but going to a mega stores with thousands of square feet of inventory never felt better. There honestly was something satisfying about knowing that I could buy both asparagus and pillows at the same store.

So, we had found the two most difficult ingredients and the rest was tracking down out-of-season produce and other assorted sides.

And so began the adventure of making Thanksgiving dinner…

We prepared our delicious apple pie and my grandma’s homemade corn recipe on Wednesday night. It was quickly brought to our attention that we had no pie pan or measuring cups. Thankfully after a few calls home to my mom we ended up measuring by using tea cups and other bowls and cups that was “close.” We ended up finishing both the pie and the corn at 3:30 am, but it was definitely worth it the next day. I think my pie would give my grandma’s a run for its money J

The next day we were looking to tackle the rest of our menu: 40 clove garlic roasted chicken, green beans with caramelized onions and toasted almonds, vegan stuffing, garlic mashed potatoes, and apple pie. The chickens posed the largest challenge as neither of us had ever cooked meat like this and that neither felt very comfortable salting and peppering the bird and giving it a “butter massage.” I ended up preparing the chicken and I think it further affirmed my meatless lifestyle.

All in all, apart from the chicken we had a completely vegan Thanksgiving and I did sneak a taste of the chicken and I’m quite impressed with myself. We had a great time sharing a bit of our culture with our Palestinians friends over familiar foods and a much loved holiday. I am truly thankful for the contribution these friends have made in my time here and it was very meaningful for me to express my gratitude.

Thanks for reading. I love comments!!

Laurie

Long overdue...

I finally have time to sit down and update my blog. Though it has been a while since I’ve updated, life here, for the most part, is becoming routine, something I'm enjoying. I finally found a café that has high speed internet connection so I can watch missed episodes of The Office. There are things I miss about home, The Office being one of them, but I’m learning to manage without or find new solutions. I’m getting more acquainted with the city and meeting new people on a regular basis. Last night, Bethany and I went to a party hosted by a group of American contractors for US AID; learning about their work was fascinating as they are working to improve health infrastructure in Palestine.

I celebrated my birthday this past Sunday with a wonderful gift: a visit from my cousin Kaylyn who is studying in London this semester. Her flight to the Holy Land was not without drama however. Since she was traveling alone and did not speak Hebrew, she was pulled into a back room where every inch of her luggage was searched, all electronics taken apart, followed by more intensive searching and questions. Then she was sent through airport security only to be taken to another back room and strip searched down to her underwear. Luckily she was 4 hours early for her flight, otherwise she would have missed it. She was the last passenger to board.

Our weekend picked up from there. We had a night out on the town in Tel-Aviv on Thursday and hoped to spend Friday at the beach but, due to gloomy weather, we went back to Ramallah early; taking it easy for the rest of the night. Saturday we went to Martin and Suzanne's house for lunch. I am always so appreciative of their hospitality. We had lentil soup, rice, dessert and great conversation. Martin and Suzanne are my ELCA coordinators. After that we shared a taxi to Bethlehem and visited the Nativity Church. My birthday was on Sunday. We celebrated at the Dead Sea Spa enjoying the beach, mud, and hot stone massages. It was nice to relax and get away from the rain of Jerusalem/Ramallah. Monday we visited Yad Vashem (the Holocaust museum in Jerusalem) and then the Old City to see the Holy Seplechure. I dropped Kaylyn off at the airport in Tel-Aviv Tuesday afternoon. I was able to be there during her questioning and thankfully it wasn’t anything too invasive.

This birthday was quite a bit different than most. As always, I am overwhelmed by the number of people who wished me well. Thank you! Being away from home made 23 feel a lot older than it probably is. I realize that I have and will continue to undergo a great deal of change which makes it seem like I’ve aged a few years, as opposed to just one. My twenty third year will undoubtedly have its share of ups and downs, but I’m looking forward to all that is to come.

My roommate Beth was very sick last week battling a fever and cold. After three days of fever and feeling sick, we made a journey to the public “mustashfa” (hospital) to be tested for swine flu. (Even when I told Palestinians that I had visited this hospital, they gave me a concerned look.) We went to the emergency room as we didn’t know where else to go. After Bethany listed her symptoms the doctor ordered a test for H1N1 for her and me, because I live with her. After both registering with the hospital we waited to be tested. Because the hospital was out of test tubes, we waited about 3 hours for tubes to be delivered and our test administered. While the healthcare professionals were very nice and spoke English well it still led me to question the quality of healthcare Palestinians receive. Because this hospital is funded solely by the Ministry of Health, through the Palestinian Authority, its ability to stock necessary medical supplies is difficult. We learned later that we could have gone to the private hospital across the street for immediate care. It is expensive (though our health insurance through the ELCA does cover it) and most times that cost is too high for Palestinians to pay.

As I mentioned earlier, my life is becoming more routine. Typically, I get to the school I volunteer at, around 8:40 am. I help Tagreed, the secretary, make copies, file, stamp, and with anything else that needs to be done. Then we work with the younger grades, either 1^st or kindergarden. Currently, they are learning to write “capital A and small a”. Their enthusiasm to use what few words they do know is encouraging. We’ve also been teaching parts of the face; eyes, ears, mouth and nose. The biggest challenge for them is distinguishing between eyes and ears. After a few hours with the younger grades, we then assist grades 8, 9 or 10 with conversation and reading.

I enjoy this part of our day. I like visiting with the students and hearing their outlook on Palestine and America. They ask us tough questions: “What don’t you like about Islam?”, “Why do American movies always depict Muslims as terrorists?”, “Why does America send foreign aid to Israel, a developed country?”, “Why don’t Americans know about our situation?”, “Do Americans hate Muslims?”, “Did you vote for Bush in 2004?”; the list goes on. While I am aware that America makes mistakes and I am willing to admit that to the students, it’s difficult for the students to understand that America's priorities, for the most part, lie mostly in domestic and individual affairs. These students are used to seeing American products, such as US AID sponsoring their school, music videos from MTV, so they have a different understanding of how America should reach out. I think the students are dissatisfied with my answers so I have to choose my words very carefully. Usually I take the more diplomatic route, rather than say bluntly, “Americans don’t care about this situation as much as you'd like because they would rather focus on domestic, individual, or other international concerns first.” It’s harsh, but I believe, to a certain extent, it’s true of both American and Palestinian cultures. Any help with this situation would be greatly appreciated!

I usually get back from school around 1pm or 2pm. Beth and I have become involved in the Youth Group at church which meets Tuesday nights. Thankfully, we have translators that help us understand the lessons. Wednesday nights we rehearse with the Zaridash choir, an international choir in Ramallah. We’re practicing for performances in January. It’s nice to work with such dedicated musicians. Afternoons are spent shopping at the vegetable market. Vendor, Eyad, gives us good prices and we're getting to know the employees at two other grocery stores. I try to squeeze in a workout every day with four Palestinian friends who joined the gym I attend; doubles as workout and social time. Nights are spent on the internet visiting with my family and coordinating upcoming visits from friends and family.

Overall, this experience is more enriching every day. I hope to post pictures of Kaylyn and my adventures soon. I love the comments!

Firsts...

Marhabba!

Sorry for the delay in updating my blog. This week has been a week of firsts: first visit to the doctor in Palestine, first visit to the Dead Sea, first blown tire, first Twins game on a beach, and first camel ride.

I’ll begin with the doctor. I woke up on Thursday morning with a swollen and painful left eye. I thought I might have something in my eye from spending the previous weekend in a cave. After the women at my school called an ophthalmologist, I was whisked away in a cab to the doctor. I really didn’t know what to expect and still don’t have a thorough understanding of how the medical system works here. I entered the waiting room to find about 20 people waiting to see a doctor. After filling out paperwork, I am now officially on file as Laurie George Blank. I then passed by two other waiting rooms for our doctor each holding about 20 more people. I saw a doctor immediately who if I ever had surgery on my eye (I did, in 1998) and explained that the swelling was caused by extreme dryness. I was given an ointment and drops and sent on my way. Overall, I was very satisfied with the care I received (a visit was just $25), but concerned that I completely skipped the line. I don’t know why I was allowed to cut the line – it’s a privilege that I’m not comfortable taking advantage of.

Yesterday, our coordinator and American volunteers headed to Ein Gedi National Park and the Dead Sea. On the way there, we stopped for a camel ride in Jericho (Thanks, Suzanne!). Of course it wasn’t without a bit of drama. As we drove along the shores of the sea, the front right tire blew out. It was hot, very hot and the eight of us weren’t exactly sure how to change our tire. Thankfully a kind Israeli family stopped and changed our tire (in the sand!!) and sent us on our merry way. Ein Gedi was beautiful. Overlooking the Dead Sea, Ein Gedi has a hikers paradise with natural springs. Because I’ve never been the hiking type, I stayed with the springs. Afterwards, we headed to the Dead Sea. Unfortunately, I made the grave mistake of shaving my legs that morning and the salt from the sea burned my legs. The water acts as a natural exfoliation, so next time I will not be shaving for several days prior. The Dead Sea is as everyone says it is. It is nearly impossible to go underwater because you are so buoyant, you don’t even feel that wet because the water is so salty. After floating in the sea for a while, we went to a mud pit and covered ourselves head to toe in the mud. After washing it off, my skin felt amazing. Our day concluded with a 3-hour drive home due to a car accident at Kalandia (the checkpoint to Ramallah) – an adventure it was.

Lastly, Beth and I had an evening of fun in Tel-Aviv watching the Twins/Tigers game a week and a half ago. Beth met a USAID employee from Bloomington who invited to a bar in Tel-Aviv that has ESPN. The game began at 11pm our time. Because it went into 12 (I think) innings, it didn’t get over until 3am. Due to the curfew from the Jewish holiday of Sukkoth, all checkpoints were closed from 12:30am to 5am. We decided to pass our time with a nap on the beach. We ended up getting into Ramallah at 6:30am and had school at 7:30. It seemed like a flashback from my days at the U of M. I was tired but watching a baseball game with a pitcher of beer was so worth it.

I’m hoping to post pictures soon. Again, I sincerely appreciate the comments. I hope you’re well!

Bethany and I dressed for wedding


Fencing collects tossed garbage



Wedding Reception



At the Galilee

In Nazareth

Wedding

This last weekend was the best weekend I've had so far. We were invited to a Palestinian Christian wedding on Saturday. The rituals were nearly identical to an American Christian wedding, but with a few differences. The wedding ceremony itself, as far as I could tell as it was in Arabic, was identical. A bride in a white dress, a groom in a tux, a maid of honor and best man (no bridesmaids or groomsmen), and flower girls and ring bearers were all present. The reception was held in Jericho at the Intercontinental Hotel. It was like a mini version of a Vegas hotel complete with pools and vegetation galore, in the middle of a desert. The reception began with everyone waiting for the bride and groom's arrival. They were greeted with fireworks and dancing as they entered. The food was delicious and the live band was great. I'm seriously considering having an Arab-style wedding if and when that day comes... Sunday we were invited to Ma'ale Adudmin for dinner with a Jewish family. Ma'ale Adudmin is the largest Israeli settlement with 37,000 people, complete with swimming pools, several schools, a mall and other conveniences. It is settlements like this that are at the center of peace negotiations at the moment, so being there felt a little eerie. However, once we were in the family's flat, it felt like any other home with any other good family. I can see where it would be difficult to remember that settlements such as these are a breach of international law. Conversation at our dinner was incredibly informative. We learned a great deal about Jewish holiday tradition and current culture. The family had 5 children, all of whom had either served in the IDF or doing national service - national service being volunteering for 2 years after high school in nursing homes or at schools. Completing this service means that the former soldiers are eligible for the social security, public healthcare and everything else that is provided by the government. I also found out that these services come at a cost: a 65% flat rate income tax. Additional there is a 16.9% VAT tax (the same as a sales tax) added to all goods. The family we were talking to was so pleased that they were finally able to purchase their first home at the age of 58. After our visit to the settlement, we went to Tybeh, a local Christian village for Oktoberfest. Tybeh is home to Palestine's only brewery. I recommend trying the beer if you see it, it is delicious. Thanks for reading!!
Mom will try and post a few pictures that I emailed her.

Disturbed...

Last Saturday was perhaps the most difficult day I’ve had here so far. A major takeaway that I hoped to gain from this experience was a better understanding of hate. Up until now, I had questioned the need for peace in this region – mostly because everyday life seems to run normally here, despite the extreme inconveniences of checkpoints, house demolitions, etc. Overall though, I didn’t think many people in this region lived in fear of leaving their homes or felt that their safety was constantly at risk. In essence, there was a need for piece – clear boundaries needing to be set so that Palestinians can carry on with their way of life as can Israelis free from injustice and massive military spending. Unfortunately today, I saw how hate (and perhaps feelings of entitlement) have led people to jeopardize the safety of others and I can say that it is beyond disturbing.

We began the day touring Hebron, a city in the West Bank where Abraham, Isaac, Joseph, Jacob and their wives are buried beneath the Ibrahimi Mosque and a conjoined Synagogue. As you can imagine this is a holy site for Muslims, Christians, and Jews. The tombs lie below the Mosque and Synagogue with Jacob, Leah, and Joseph ‘s tombs being in the Synagogue, Abraham and Sarah’s tombs being accessible to both, and Isaac and Rebecca’s tombs on the Mosque side. Christians are granted access to both sides (with the exception of the Mosque on Friday and the Synagogue on Saturday due to the respective Sabbaths), but Jews and Muslims are not allowed in each other’s half except for a few days a year. Muslims and Jews used to be able to move freely through the houses of worship until 1994 when Baruch Goldstein, a Brooklyn-born physician entered the mosque on the Jewish holiday of Purim during the Muslim holy month of Ramadan with an M-16 and killed 29 Muslims and injured tens of others as they prayed in the mosque. Bullet holes are still apparent in the mosque and bulletproof glass has since been installed to protect the Muslims. Despite this being an extremely disturbing act of terrorism, in a settlement nearby, there is a memorial tribute to Goldstein and as one woman is quoted in saying on a YouTube video “it’s a shame he didn’t kill more Muslims.” There are theories of him having an accomplice as doors to the mosque were locked, barring anyone from leaving at the time shooting started and after the crime scene was investigated, more bullets were found than Goldstein was said to have had. It still remains a mystery.

After the Mosque, we walked into the Jewish zone of Hebron an area that is only accessible to Jews and Christians, to observe the checkpoint and the ultraorthodox Jewish settlers. Rabbi Moshe Levinger began colonizing the center of town after Israel seized the West Bank in 1967. Though these moves were against Israeli law, they ultimately garnered endorsement, even after a settlement of Kiryat Arba was established nearby to draw the settlers out. As a result, the city is quartered up into zones. Each armed settler in the Old City is protected by as many as four armed soldiers stationed on rooftops and street corners, allowing the 600 Jews there to roam freely in the streets, carrying machine guns and hurling anti-Arab chants. Clashes break out between settlers and soldiers regularly, not to mention repeated violence and terrorist activity towards Muslims. It was a very weird sight, male orthodox Jews looking like they just came from a Gap commercial suit with white shirts and khaki pants, carrying machine guns across their shoulders walking home from Synagogue.

After observing the settlers, we went to the Old City to shop. Like all of the old cities here, they are comprised of stone buildings and streets that are close together. Above the narrow streets was fencing with garbage and other random items caught in it. When I asked our tour guide about the purpose of fencing he said that Jewish settlers often throw things down onto the vendors including garbage, feces, and bleach to destroy their product. After shopping in the Old City, we met with a Palestinian family who lives on the border of the Palestinian zone and the Jewish zones. Though they are not accessible to each other by ground, they are by rooftop.

The Palestinian family has nine children who are now forced to live entirely within one room because it is the only place they can feel secure. They used to have two rooms for the entire family to fit comfortably, but settlers burned it down killing one of their children. The doors are without locks as settlers have repeatedly shot them out. Furthermore, the settlers shot holes into the family’s water tank, making it impossible for them to get water. A new tank costs around $100 (a great sum for this family) but cannot be installed without a building permit from the Israeli government. Palestinians unfortunately, are not allowed to have building permits, so the current water tank they have is there illegally, which if discovered could cost them their house.

The irony of all of this is that in order to provide a secure area for the Jewish settlers, the IDF has stations on rooftops watching over the properties. As we went to the rooftop of the Palestinian family we were visiting, an IDF station was about 20 feet away, in clear view of a soldier. Under laws of occupation, the occupier must protect both the citizens of its country and in the land that they occupy, obviously this isn’t happening.

I thought that this would be the most upsetting part of the day, but unfortunately, I was wrong. We left Hebron for the small village of At-Tuwani, a primitive subsistence village with the great misfortune of being with 200 meters of Ma’on, a settlement full of ideological Jewish settlers. The settlers began moving to the area in the early 1980s and have been terrorizing the community ever since. It started with attacking shepherds with sticks, then settlers began stealing, poisoning, and killing Palestinian livestock. At one point they poisoned a Palestinian barley crop that was planted for a resident’s goats to graze in, they could not drink the milk for months for fear of drinking poison and dying.

Attacks on adults are one thing, but settlers have been targeting children for years. At-Tuwani houses the only school for miles. Children from surrounding villages walk to school in the morning are often met by harassment from adult settlers of Ma’on. Harassment can be as minor as yelling obscenities to throwing stones and stealing money and backpacks, to beatings. The Christian Peacemaker Team was approached to help accompany the children as they walk to school. Within two weeks, three CPT volunteers had been hospitalized as they were met by settlers with bats and chains. Now the IDF accompanies the children to school, yet they are still subject to harassment and terrorism.

The list of attacks truly goes on and doesn’t show any sign stopping (for a more detailed list of attacks you can read here http://www.cpt.org/hebron/documents/Tuwani_media_packet.htm). Although many of these attacks have been caught on tape and turned into the Israeli police and IDF, nothing is done. I question how residents like the settlers benefit the state of Israel. Certainly the mentality of lawlessness would or should be of concern. It’s puzzling.

Obviously after learning this, it brings an entirely different dimension to the notion of peace and piece. I still don’t have all of the answers, but there must be a better solution than the status quo.

Thanks for reading. I love the comments.

Galilee and Peace Talks...

Today was my first day back from a three-day holiday. As a group, we spent Monday – Wednesday at the Galilee enjoying swimming in freshwater and taking in religious sights. I’m reading the Bible with a great deal more interest since I can picture where the stories took place. The Galilee includes many famous stories and places such as Nazareth, Capernaum, the Mount of Beatitudes, Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes, and Jericho. Nazareth is the site of the Basilica of the Annunciation where it is believed that the Angel Gabriel appeared to her and announced that she was pregnant with Jesus. We also visited the Greek Catholic Synagogue Church – a synagogue built on the site of a synagogue said to be where the young Jesus regularly prayed and later preached.

Next we arrived at our accommodations at the Galilee and enjoyed the sea. This is where Jesus walked on water though scientists believe that he skated due to a freak cold spell – the jury’s still out for me. The next day we visited the ancient town of Capernaum, Jesus’s home base during the most influential period of his Galilean ministry. He also recruited his first disciples here: Peter, Andrew, James, John (all fisherman), and Matthew (a tax collector).

Wednesday we spent time at the Mount of Beatitudes where Jesus delivered the Beatitudes of Matthew 5:3 – 10

“Blessed are the poor in spirit, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven

Blessed are those who mourn, for they will be comforted.

Blessed are the meek, for they will inherit the earth.

Blessed are those who hunger and thirst for righteousness, for they will be filled.

Blessed are the merciful, for they will receive mercy.

Blessed are the pure in heart, for they will see God.

Blessed are the peacemakers, for they will be called children of God

Blessed are those who are persecuted for righteousness’ sake, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven.”

The verses are beautiful as is the view of the Galilee. Now there is a church and gardens on the site. Next we went to the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes where Jesus fed 5000.

Lunch was at Pagoda a Chinese/Thai restaurant. I had no idea how much I missed a good Pad Thai and it was nice to feel like I was eating something from home. Our last stop was to Jericho. The city of Jericho is the oldest continuously inhabited city on earth as well as the lowest (1200ft below sea level). So far the terrain of Israel/Palestine has been mountainous, but Jericho is quite different, a valley miles from the Dead Sea and completely flat. Security in Jericho is very high since the second infitada and is often where heads of government meet.

Settlements were at the center of peace talks this week between Obama, Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, and Palestinian Authority President Mahmoud Abbas. Abbas refuses to engage in peace talks as long as settlements are still under construction. Israel has ignored Obama’s call for a settlement building freeze, though they have now agreed upon “restraining” settlement activity. Ultimately, Obama called for negotiations to be made without preconditions and on Tuesday, Obama, Netanyahu, and Abbas met. Though there were no breakthroughs, both sides did agree to send negotiating teams to Washington net week and there was a general agreement that peace talks should restart quickly.

The notion of settlements is a double-edge sword. While the building of settlements in the West Bank is illegally confiscating Palestinian land, the construction of them (and the wall) employs thousands of Palestinians. A Palestinian friend told us last night that his friend had recently lost his job with a family and two kids. When I asked what he did, he said he worked in the settlements and the slowdown cost him his job. It’s very ironic. Prior to these talks there were currently around 2500 units in production and 500 more planned, I do not know what the current plans are post-peace talks.

The talk of settlements unfortunately is just the tip of the iceberg for peace. Bigger negotiations such borders, Jerusalem, the right of return for Palestinian refugees will prompt much greater debate. Most people favor a two state solution, but when actually considering the logistics of moving 500,000 Israeli settlers out of the West Bank and negotiating borders as well as figuring out what to do with people who were forced to leave their homes in 1948 or later, it’s a nightmare, not to mention questions of whether Palestinians can maintain an economy without ties to Israel. A one state solution is far and wide easier logistically, but can Arabs and Israelis coexist?

I admire Obama for taking the initiative to restart peace talks, but his power seems limited as, in my mind, the only action the US could take to prompt Israel and Palestine from dragging their feet is end our foreign aid – a budgetary power given to Congress. Israel has the largest foreign lobby in Washington, so it is unlikely this will happen. Below is a breakdown of aid and other forms of trade that we are engaged with in Israel that I found online, it’s amazing to see how much interaction we do with each other. It is also important to note that we also fund a great deal of social projects through USAID for Palestine too, mainly around building hospitals and schools, that could easily be suspended as well, but I do not have the specifics on.

According to the book "The Israel Lobby and U.S. Foreign Policy" by Walt and Mearsheimer, "Israel receives on average about 3 billion in direct foreign assistance each year, an amount that is roughly one-sixth of America's direct foreign assistance budget and equal to about 2 percent of Israel's GDP. In recent years, about 75 percent of U.S. assistance has been military aid, with the remainer broken down into various forms of economic aid. In per capita terms, this level of direct foreign assistance amounts to a direct subsidy of more that $500 per year for each Israeli."Other US help includes:

• US Jewish charities and organizations have remitted grants or bought Israel bonds worth $50 billion to $60 billion. Though private in origin, the money is "a net drain" on the United States economy, says Stauffer.

• The US has already guaranteed $10 billion in commercial loans to Israel, and $600 million in "housing loans." (See editor's note below.) Stauffer expects the US Treasury to cover these.

• The US has given $2.5 billion to support Israel's Lavi fighter and Arrow missile projects.

• Israel buys discounted, serviceable "excess" US military equipment. Stauffer says these discounts amount to "several billion dollars" over recent years.

• Israel uses roughly 40 percent of its $1.8 billion per year in military aid, ostensibly earmarked for purchase of US weapons, to buy Israeli-made hardware. It also has won the right to require the Defense Department or US defense contractors to buy Israeli-made equipment or subsystems, paying 50 to 60 cents on every defense dollar the US gives to Israel.

US help, financial and technical, has enabled Israel to become a major weapons supplier. Weapons make up almost half of Israel's manufactured exports. US defense contractors often resent the buy-Israel requirements and the extra competition subsidized by US taxpayers.

• US policy and trade sanctions reduce US exports to the Middle East about $5 billion a year, costing 70,000 or so American jobs, Stauffer estimates. Not requiring Israel to use its US aid to buy American goods, as is usual in foreign aid, costs another 125,000 jobs.

• Israel has blocked some major US arms sales, such as F-15 fighter aircraft to Saudi Arabia in the mid-1980s. That cost $40 billion over 10 years, says Stauffer.

Well, it is time for me to go to bed. I hope you’re all well. Thanks for the comments!

Laurie

Eid-il-Fitr

Good evening everyone,

So I'm still have difficulties uploading pictures - hopefully this will be resolved soon. I'm eager to share more about my experiences through pictures.

The focus of this week has been the end of Ramadan (a notion that I am admittedly extremely excited about) and the beginning of Rosh Hashanah - a celebration of the Jewish New Year. It is only by coincidence that both fall during the same time this year, but this dramatically complicates the security issue. During the Muslim Sabbath (Friday) and other designated holy days of prayer, many Muslims go to Jerusalem (provided they can attain a permit which are easier to get during holy periods) to pray at the Dome of the Rock as it is the third most holy site for Islam. On Wednesday, my roommate Bethany and I tried to go to a volleyball fellowship for internationals not realizing that it was an important day for prayer. We waited at the checkpoint for two hours before deciding to turn back - the most frustrating part of this was that we were in a line about ten people deep, but still had at least another hour before we would go through metal detectors ( the final step of the checkpoint process) due to an IDF slow down. We later found out that some 400,000 Muslims had entered Jerusalem on Wednesday to pray and the number was expected to be much greater on Friday. We had our first Arabic lesson on Friday, thankfully we were picked up by our country coordinators - otherwise we would have had to line up around 8am, to ensure that we could get into Jerusalem by 5pm. Literally, people will line up for miles. The end of Ramadan is marked by Eid-il-Fitr, the Festival of Breaking Fast and carries the same weight as Christmas does for Christians. People go to mosque in new clothes and exchange gifs with friends and family.

Rosh Hashanah started yesterday which means that Palestinians are barred from entering Israel, even if they possess a work permit. As I grow more into my role as an American in Palestine, my privilege is more and more apparent. This morning, Bethany and I attended worship in Jerusalem as we were being commissioned by the Bishop of the ELCJHL (Evangelical Lutheran Church of Jordan and the Holy Land). A friend of ours was going to be officiating the Arabic speaking congregation at the same church and offered to accompany us through the checkpoints and transportation. We hadn't given a second thought about being able to pass through Kalandia, he on the other was extremely nervous as his work permit may not be able to trump Rosh Hashanah, despite being able to prove being a Christian pastor on a Sunday. Thankfully, there were no problems, but again, I was reminded of how accompanying the Palestinian people in their struggle is difficult simply because I have white face and a blue passport.

Also, over the past weeks I have been learning more about the internal struggles and prejudices of Palestine. I am largely surrounded by Arab Christians, who comprise of about 3% of the Palestinian population. This identity not only subjects them to prejudice from Israelis, but Muslims as well. Particularly with Hamas gaining support in the West Bank, many Christians are scared that it will largely compromise their freedom to worship and abide by their traditions (namely, women not having to cover their head). In 2006, Hamas won a democratic election in Gaza. Since coming to power, women must be covered and are no longer able to work or drive. It's the ultimate paradox of a democratic election with very undemocratic policies. I will be writing more about the advantages and disadvantaes of Hamas and Fatah in posts to come.

Of the Christians I have talked to, they have no problem with Muslims on an individual level, but feel as a religion, their beliefs are too strongly imposed on the population. As a Westerner, I assumed to find a large Christian presence in the Holy Land, but they are leaving at record numbers, partly due to the occupation and partly due to fear of losing religious freedom. Many Muslims believe that Christians side with the West, a largely untrue assumption and see them as a threat to Islam. Unfortunately, the peace process with have to extend further than Israel and Palestine, but Christians and Muslims.

I hope you're well. Again, I sincerely appreciate your comments. I head to the Sea of Galilee in a few hours (it's 3am West Bank time at the moment) for Eid-il-Fitr since it's also a school holiday. My main objective is to walk on water - stay tuned...

Peace,

Laurie